Just some of my personal favorite macro shots for the year of 2009. Happy New Year everyone :)
Mostly taken with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X Macro Lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash.
If you would like to view any of the images above larger, click the corresponding links below :). Happy viewing!
1. IMG_3393 copy, 2. IMG_3180 copy, 3. My hair looks nice? (IMG_2394 copy), 4. IMG_0264dt copy, 5. Hover fly - Let's Dance series (IMG_9077 copy), 6. IMG_9157 8 9 stack, 7. IMG_8458 copy, 8. IMG_7897 copy, 9. IMG_7287 copy, 10. IMG_7598 copy, 11. IMG_7004 copy, 12. IMG_6683 copy, 13. Microdon auroscutatus Curran IMG_5491 copy, 14. Crimson Dropwing, male (IMG_4916 copy), 15. IMG_5001 copy, 16. Weevil taking off (IMG_4672 copy), 17. Pink Is In series 1/3: IMG_8385 copy, 18. IMG_1856, 19. IMG_9349web, 20. pink dragon reflection, 21. IMG_4549 copy, 22. 4" away from a wild snake :D (IMG_4318 copy), 23. Trap jaw ant (IMG_3940 copy), 24. IMG_3943 copy, 25. IMG_0103 copy
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Saturday, December 26, 2009
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Too Warm. Too Cold. Too Green. Too Magenta.
I am talking about the white balance, of course :D. If you're familiar with ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) or other RAW processor, you'll know that there's a Temperature slider and a Tint slider.
I've prepared a few seriously exaggerated samples for the ease of explanation. First, the Temperature slider. At this point, we leave the Tint slider as it is.
White Balance As Shot
Too Warm. Happens if you move the slider too much to the right. You'll get somewhat similar result too if you shoot under tungsten light with AWB.
Too cold...notice everything becomes bluish? Even the green leaves. Also note that the water lily petals have clipping in it i.e. loss of details and/or textures in the petals. AWB under fluorescent light will give you similar result.
Now the Tint slider. Leave the Temperature slider at As Shot position.
Too green if you move the slider to the left. Green cast in everything.
Too magenta if you move the slider to the right....
However, all these won't mean a thing if your display is not calibrated. I use Spyder2Express to calibrate my display at least once a month. How you calibrate your display is crucial too. Make sure there's no backlight or better still, have it done with shades down and lights off.
Even though my display is calibrated, I try not to comment on WB unless it's really really really way off.
If you shoot in RAW, it's quite easy to correct the WB. Just play with both the Temp and Tint sliders until the image looks right to you. Or if there's a white area in the image, use the White Balance tool and click on the white area and that should get you to the ball park. You can then further fine tune from there. Theoretically, the WB Tool works best on an 18% grey area.
However, in the real world, you don't always find a white spot or light grey spot it's back to manually adjusting the sliders until what you see is what you like :D
In my 40D, I have the White Balance on Custom, manually set at around 4600K. Seems to work much better than Auto WB.
I use Spyder3Epxress for my display calibration
SPYDER3EXPRESS
If you shoot with natural light, it will help if you use a white balance cap or white balance card to obtain more accurate white balance.
I've prepared a few seriously exaggerated samples for the ease of explanation. First, the Temperature slider. At this point, we leave the Tint slider as it is.
White Balance As Shot
Too Warm. Happens if you move the slider too much to the right. You'll get somewhat similar result too if you shoot under tungsten light with AWB.
Too cold...notice everything becomes bluish? Even the green leaves. Also note that the water lily petals have clipping in it i.e. loss of details and/or textures in the petals. AWB under fluorescent light will give you similar result.
Now the Tint slider. Leave the Temperature slider at As Shot position.
Too green if you move the slider to the left. Green cast in everything.
Too magenta if you move the slider to the right....
However, all these won't mean a thing if your display is not calibrated. I use Spyder2Express to calibrate my display at least once a month. How you calibrate your display is crucial too. Make sure there's no backlight or better still, have it done with shades down and lights off.
Even though my display is calibrated, I try not to comment on WB unless it's really really really way off.
If you shoot in RAW, it's quite easy to correct the WB. Just play with both the Temp and Tint sliders until the image looks right to you. Or if there's a white area in the image, use the White Balance tool and click on the white area and that should get you to the ball park. You can then further fine tune from there. Theoretically, the WB Tool works best on an 18% grey area.
However, in the real world, you don't always find a white spot or light grey spot it's back to manually adjusting the sliders until what you see is what you like :D
In my 40D, I have the White Balance on Custom, manually set at around 4600K. Seems to work much better than Auto WB.
I use Spyder3Epxress for my display calibration
SPYDER3EXPRESS
If you shoot with natural light, it will help if you use a white balance cap or white balance card to obtain more accurate white balance.
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
A Dragon Smooch!
Oh no...not another animation?
Er..yes...it's yet another animation. LOL. With a dragon so cute, how could I say no? :D
All images shot with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X macro lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash
The tutorial on creating animation has been posted before:
How to create animation.
Er..yes...it's yet another animation. LOL. With a dragon so cute, how could I say no? :D
All images shot with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X macro lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash
The tutorial on creating animation has been posted before:
How to create animation.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Day Trip to Sungai Congkak Recreational Park
A group of us went to Sungai Congkak last Friday. It was a public holiday in case you were wondering why we didn't have to work:D
Sungai Congkak is only like 35km from Mid Valley city and takes around 45 minutes to get to. Check out this google map for direction/location.
All landscape shots were taken with a Canon 40D and Tamron 17-50mm on tripod. All macro images were taken with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X Macro Lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash.
View Larger Map
Although we left town at 7:30am, by the time we got there, the sun was already too high and harsh for any decent slow shutter waterfall shots :(. Lots of irrecoverable blown highlights. The only way to avoid it was to just shoot the water and rocks and avoid the land altogether. Only managed a couple of boring shots before i decided to switch to macro mode :D
Lovely red and hairy beetle
a raft spider(?) with jumping spider as prey, and a few jackal flies(?)
Sungai Congkak is only like 35km from Mid Valley city and takes around 45 minutes to get to. Check out this google map for direction/location.
All landscape shots were taken with a Canon 40D and Tamron 17-50mm on tripod. All macro images were taken with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X Macro Lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash.
View Larger Map
Although we left town at 7:30am, by the time we got there, the sun was already too high and harsh for any decent slow shutter waterfall shots :(. Lots of irrecoverable blown highlights. The only way to avoid it was to just shoot the water and rocks and avoid the land altogether. Only managed a couple of boring shots before i decided to switch to macro mode :D
Lovely red and hairy beetle
a raft spider(?) with jumping spider as prey, and a few jackal flies(?)
Saturday, December 12, 2009
The Maestro!
Ladies and Gentlemen, i present you ........The Maestro!24
Canon MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Flash for Canon Digital SLR Cameras
All images shot with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X macro lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash
She sure has beautiful eyes, doesn't she? :D...too bad the mouth is so hideous..but that's out of the scope of of this post here.
Creating an animation like this is so easy. Just check out my previous post on it:
How to create animation from still images
Unfreez is a freeware. Try to play around with the Frame Delay to get the effect you want.
Canon MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Flash for Canon Digital SLR Cameras
All images shot with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X macro lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash
She sure has beautiful eyes, doesn't she? :D...too bad the mouth is so hideous..but that's out of the scope of of this post here.
Creating an animation like this is so easy. Just check out my previous post on it:
How to create animation from still images
Unfreez is a freeware. Try to play around with the Frame Delay to get the effect you want.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Day Trip to Kellie's Castle and Ipoh old town
I went to Kellie's Castle and Ipoh with a pal of mine and three new friends yesterday.
(From Wikipedia)
Kellie's Castle (sometimes also called Kellie's Folly) is located near Batu Gajah, and is about 20 minutes' drive from Ipoh, Perak, Malaysia. The unfinished, ruined mansion, was built by a Scottish planter named William Kellie Smith. According to differing accounts, it was either a gift for his wife or a home for his son. More here.
More about Kellie's Castle here.
All the images were shot with Canon 40D and Tamron 17-50 and Hoya Pro CPL
Kellie's Castle from the front
View from the back
from the side
the corridor
Ipoh old town:
An elderly gentleman riding a trishaw
Phang Kwi - an old rattan furniture shop in old town, Ipoh
Mr. Phang, a kind and friendly gentleman who not only allowed us to shoot, but chatted with us quite a bit too.
Mr. Phang repairing an old furniture
(From Wikipedia)
Kellie's Castle (sometimes also called Kellie's Folly) is located near Batu Gajah, and is about 20 minutes' drive from Ipoh, Perak, Malaysia. The unfinished, ruined mansion, was built by a Scottish planter named William Kellie Smith. According to differing accounts, it was either a gift for his wife or a home for his son. More here.
More about Kellie's Castle here.
All the images were shot with Canon 40D and Tamron 17-50 and Hoya Pro CPL
Kellie's Castle from the front
View from the back
from the side
the corridor
Ipoh old town:
An elderly gentleman riding a trishaw
Phang Kwi - an old rattan furniture shop in old town, Ipoh
Mr. Phang, a kind and friendly gentleman who not only allowed us to shoot, but chatted with us quite a bit too.
Mr. Phang repairing an old furniture
Monday, November 30, 2009
How to judge a macro image?
Argh...this is gonna be a tough one to write. I should just post a few images:P
Not sure about you, but when i look at a macro shot, I look at not just the technical aspect of it but also the artistic/aesthetic side as well.
- Is focusing spot on?
- Sufficient DOF and enough details for me to ooh and aah at?
- Is the pose good? Let's face it...butt shots are normally frowned upon, even though it might work once in a while :D If you catch a bug in flight or about to take off, extra brownie points!
Now a couple of images for a short break.
Most of the images below were shot with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X Macro Lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash.
- Composition. This can be very subjective though so let's not discuss it too much here :-D. Common portraiture rules/guidelines apply in macro as well. For example, active space, head shot, shoulder shot, half body shot, full body shot - you need to know where to crop/frame even if the subject is a bug. But of course...the bugs are always on the move and it's not always easy to shoot, much less frame them nicely.
- Background clutter - try to avoid them as much as possible.
OK..another short break.
- Quality of light, whether you shoot with natural lighting or full flash, the light has to be good. If you're shooting natural light, shoot in the morning or evening or when it's overcast. Clouds are the best diffusers for sunlight.
If you're shooting full flash, bring your light as close to the subject as possible, and make the diffuser as big as possible - apparent light size. It's been discussed in this post.
How to tell if the light is bad?
Clue #1:
Look at the specular highlight and see if they're easy on the eyes. Any blown highlight with lost details?
Clue #2
Look at the shadow. Hasrh aka poorly diffused light will result in hard i.e more defined shadow.
Something like this..but of course this one is not bad at all:D
Notice the shadows of the legs are quite defined? Not bad but can be better. But it's shot with a 100mm at quite a distance, with snoot-diffuser. Bigger distance = poor apparent light size so this is to be expected.
Do bear in mind that if the subject is very leggy, you can't expect to see much shadow. For example, look at this shot of a stilt legged fly:
Almost no shadow.
- of course when you see a shot of a rare bug, all the rules above can be relaxed a little :D
Not sure about you, but when i look at a macro shot, I look at not just the technical aspect of it but also the artistic/aesthetic side as well.
- Is focusing spot on?
- Sufficient DOF and enough details for me to ooh and aah at?
- Is the pose good? Let's face it...butt shots are normally frowned upon, even though it might work once in a while :D If you catch a bug in flight or about to take off, extra brownie points!
Now a couple of images for a short break.
Most of the images below were shot with a Canon 40D, Canon MP-E65 1X-5X Macro Lens and Canon MT-24EX Twin Flash.
- Composition. This can be very subjective though so let's not discuss it too much here :-D. Common portraiture rules/guidelines apply in macro as well. For example, active space, head shot, shoulder shot, half body shot, full body shot - you need to know where to crop/frame even if the subject is a bug. But of course...the bugs are always on the move and it's not always easy to shoot, much less frame them nicely.
- Background clutter - try to avoid them as much as possible.
OK..another short break.
- Quality of light, whether you shoot with natural lighting or full flash, the light has to be good. If you're shooting natural light, shoot in the morning or evening or when it's overcast. Clouds are the best diffusers for sunlight.
If you're shooting full flash, bring your light as close to the subject as possible, and make the diffuser as big as possible - apparent light size. It's been discussed in this post.
How to tell if the light is bad?
Clue #1:
Look at the specular highlight and see if they're easy on the eyes. Any blown highlight with lost details?
Clue #2
Look at the shadow. Hasrh aka poorly diffused light will result in hard i.e more defined shadow.
Something like this..but of course this one is not bad at all:D
Notice the shadows of the legs are quite defined? Not bad but can be better. But it's shot with a 100mm at quite a distance, with snoot-diffuser. Bigger distance = poor apparent light size so this is to be expected.
Do bear in mind that if the subject is very leggy, you can't expect to see much shadow. For example, look at this shot of a stilt legged fly:
Almost no shadow.
- of course when you see a shot of a rare bug, all the rules above can be relaxed a little :D
Monday, November 23, 2009
Wonderful Floras and Faunas
I woke up really early last Saturday. 4:30am to be exact. Met up with three other photographers and went up to a highland hoping to shoot sunrise.
Turned out to be a foggy, windy, and rainy day with no sun in sight. Still a great day though to enjoy the cold weather and all the wonderful floras and faunas the highland had to offer.
All images here were shot with a Canon 40D and Sigma 150mm F2.8 Macro Lens.
A rather rare scorpionfly, for me, at least. Hope to see it again and take better shots of it.
Asian Flower Mantis, black BG
Asian Flower Mantis, green BG. Haven't seen one of these since May 28, 2008!:D
An animation here: View On Black
Tiny Pitcher's plant...some less than 15mm!
Turned out to be a foggy, windy, and rainy day with no sun in sight. Still a great day though to enjoy the cold weather and all the wonderful floras and faunas the highland had to offer.
All images here were shot with a Canon 40D and Sigma 150mm F2.8 Macro Lens.
A rather rare scorpionfly, for me, at least. Hope to see it again and take better shots of it.
Asian Flower Mantis, black BG
Asian Flower Mantis, green BG. Haven't seen one of these since May 28, 2008!:D
An animation here: View On Black
Tiny Pitcher's plant...some less than 15mm!
Monday, November 16, 2009
A few Odonata shots with my new toy
Just a few Odonata shots from my new lens. You'll have to view the exif to see for yourself which lens it is. If you need help on viewing exif, view this:. The "bokeh-er" background should give you a hint that it's a long focal length :D. I'm still not telling. Go check the exif yourself.
Trithemis aurora male, crimson dropwing
Canon EOS 40D, 1/50, f/7.1, ISO 320, Natural Light, Handheld
A male Crimson dropwing (Trithemis aurora)
Trithemis aurora, female crimson dropwing
Canon EOS 40D, 1/100, f/7.1, ISO 200, Natural Light, Handheld
Up close with a male Crimson dropwing (Trithemis aurora)
Bronze Flutterer (Rhyothemis obsolescens)
Yellow-barred Flutterer Rhyotemis phyllis
A male Trumpet Tale, Acisoma panorpoides, eating a damselfly.
Canon EOS 40D, 1/100, f/8, ISO 320, Fill Flash, Handheld
Portrait of a male Trumpet Tail, Acisoma panorpoides
Another portrait
A female Trumpet Tail, Acisoma panorpoides
A male Pygmy dragonfly, Nannophya pygmaea. The smallest dragonfly in Malaysia, only about 15mm body length and 20mm wing span.
A female Nannophya pygmaea
A male Pygmy dragonfly, Nannophya pygmaea.
A male in obelisk pose.
A sub-adult male Sarlet Pygmy (Nannophya pygmaea)
Female Lyriothemis biappendiculata
A male treehugger dragonfly, Tyriobapta torrida
A female treehugger dragonfly Tyriobapta torrida. Very cryptic!
Potamarcha congener?
Macrogomphus thoracius
Onychothemis testacea
Ictinogomphus decoratus(Common Flangetail)
Neurothemis ramburii dragonfly fallen prey to a raft spider. If you like spiders, check this post out!
Variegated green skimmer (Orthetrum sabina) with prey - a butterfly.
Heliocypha biforata.
Dark tipped forest skimmer (Cratilla metallica)
Euphaea ochracea
Not sure of its ID.
Devadatta argyoides
Rhinagrion elopurae
Stunning male green metalwing, Neurobasis chinensis
Watch an animated gif to see for yourself the flashy green metallic wing tips of this gorgeous damselfly here.
A damselfly with cricket prey.
Damsel eats damsel.
Damselflies in tandem.
The emergence of a damselfly.
More animation here.
Portrait of a male immature Crimson dropwing Trithemis aurora
Another portrait. Not sure of its ID.
I haven't tried Full Flash shots with this long focal length macro lens yet, but i know the light is going to be harsh. Heck, i could see that even in my fill flash shot already, so it's gonna be worse for full flash. I use the same DIY Diffusers for my usual 40D, MP-E65 and MT-24EX setup, except now it's 40D, MT-24EX and a new, longer lens, and longer working distance. So why the harsh light? Why does it work ok on when i use my MP-E65 but not with this new lens? Well, again, it's about the apparent light size, which i explained in one of my earlier post: Full Flash Macro Photography - 3 Things you must know! Besides the longer working distance compared to the MP-E65, which I am still trying to get used to, this new lens also produces much warmer images. I normally set the WB to 4800K for the 40D, MP-E65 and MT-24EX, but the same 4800K still results in very warm photos. I'm going to lower the WB to maybe 4000 next time. That's all and cheers for now :) OK...i'm sure you've checked the exif and know the answer already - my new toy is a Sigma 150mm F2.8 Macro Lens :)
Trithemis aurora male, crimson dropwing
Canon EOS 40D, 1/50, f/7.1, ISO 320, Natural Light, Handheld
A male Crimson dropwing (Trithemis aurora)
Trithemis aurora, female crimson dropwing
Canon EOS 40D, 1/100, f/7.1, ISO 200, Natural Light, Handheld
Up close with a male Crimson dropwing (Trithemis aurora)
Bronze Flutterer (Rhyothemis obsolescens)
Yellow-barred Flutterer Rhyotemis phyllis
A male Trumpet Tale, Acisoma panorpoides, eating a damselfly.
Canon EOS 40D, 1/100, f/8, ISO 320, Fill Flash, Handheld
Portrait of a male Trumpet Tail, Acisoma panorpoides
Another portrait
A female Trumpet Tail, Acisoma panorpoides
A male Pygmy dragonfly, Nannophya pygmaea. The smallest dragonfly in Malaysia, only about 15mm body length and 20mm wing span.
A female Nannophya pygmaea
A male Pygmy dragonfly, Nannophya pygmaea.
A male in obelisk pose.
A sub-adult male Sarlet Pygmy (Nannophya pygmaea)
Female Lyriothemis biappendiculata
A male treehugger dragonfly, Tyriobapta torrida
A female treehugger dragonfly Tyriobapta torrida. Very cryptic!
Potamarcha congener?
Macrogomphus thoracius
Onychothemis testacea
Ictinogomphus decoratus(Common Flangetail)
Neurothemis ramburii dragonfly fallen prey to a raft spider. If you like spiders, check this post out!
Variegated green skimmer (Orthetrum sabina) with prey - a butterfly.
Heliocypha biforata.
Dark tipped forest skimmer (Cratilla metallica)
Euphaea ochracea
Not sure of its ID.
Devadatta argyoides
Rhinagrion elopurae
Stunning male green metalwing, Neurobasis chinensis
Watch an animated gif to see for yourself the flashy green metallic wing tips of this gorgeous damselfly here.
A damselfly with cricket prey.
Damsel eats damsel.
Damselflies in tandem.
The emergence of a damselfly.
More animation here.
Portrait of a male immature Crimson dropwing Trithemis aurora
Another portrait. Not sure of its ID.
I haven't tried Full Flash shots with this long focal length macro lens yet, but i know the light is going to be harsh. Heck, i could see that even in my fill flash shot already, so it's gonna be worse for full flash. I use the same DIY Diffusers for my usual 40D, MP-E65 and MT-24EX setup, except now it's 40D, MT-24EX and a new, longer lens, and longer working distance. So why the harsh light? Why does it work ok on when i use my MP-E65 but not with this new lens? Well, again, it's about the apparent light size, which i explained in one of my earlier post: Full Flash Macro Photography - 3 Things you must know! Besides the longer working distance compared to the MP-E65, which I am still trying to get used to, this new lens also produces much warmer images. I normally set the WB to 4800K for the 40D, MP-E65 and MT-24EX, but the same 4800K still results in very warm photos. I'm going to lower the WB to maybe 4000 next time. That's all and cheers for now :) OK...i'm sure you've checked the exif and know the answer already - my new toy is a Sigma 150mm F2.8 Macro Lens :)